Saturday, September 28, 2013

The last day in Prague.

Saturday was St. Wenceslaus day here in Prague. I'm sure you were all celebrating good king Wenceslaus in your own way and don't need any explanation as to the holiday. But for the few of you who need a refresher, Wenceslaus I was the duke of Bohemia from 921 until his assassination in 935, purportedly in a plot by his own brother, Boleslav the Cruel. Here's the thing, if your brother is named "the Cruel," you will probably want to keep sharp objects away from him. 

After his death Wenceslaus I was elevated to sainthood, posthumously declared king, and seen as the patron saint of the Czech state. He is the subject of Good King Wenceslas, a Saint Stephen's Day carol written over 900 years later, in 1853, that remains popular to this day and which most people know one or two lines of before they resort to humming. 


The day involved more than solemnly remembering King Wenceslas because there was a castle to storm. We walked to the castle via the famous and picturesque Charles Bridge. The Charles Bridge crosses the Vltava river and dates back to 1357. 


Along the sides of this pedestrian-only bridge are 30 statues in the baroque style. It's simply beautiful to walk along the bridge and look back into town, look down over the river and the boats and swans thereon or look up to the castle that looms overhead. 


The bridge is not just baroque architecture; it also features a modern trend called love locks. What are love locks? Well, when a couple love each other very, very, much, they fix padlocks on fences, gates, and in this case, a bridge. They put their names or initials on the padlocks and throw away the key. As such, they are locked together through time without the embarrassing permanence of a tattoo. It is at this point of the story that I have been asked to clarify that no one involved with this blog put a love lock on the bridge. 


The castle itself was awe inspiring. It is the largest ancient castle in the world and dates back to the year 870. The Kings of Bohemia, Holy Roman Emperors and presidents of Czechoslovakia and the Czech Republic have had their offices in the castle and it was occupied by the Nazis during WWII. Today it is the seat of the head of state of the new Czech Republic. You can't deny how inspiring it is and how it would have sent a message of power to those viewing the castle from below. Most castles are built to send a message of strength and this imposing building looking down on the city is no exception. 

The castle completely encloses the gothic Saint Vitus Cathedral which we didn't get to visit because we arrived before it opened. We were, however, able to climb the tower in the cathedral. All 287 steps of it to the very top and it's panoramic views of Prague. I have a fear of heights yet I find it necessary to climb every tower I come across. My legs shook the entire time but I knew I'd regret not doing it. 




After our visit to the castle grounds we departed via the gardens which would be spectacular in the spring and summer but which are settling in for the winter. Still, it was a beautiful walk back off the grounds and back to town for lunch. 

We ate and drank at a Prague gastro pub where we enjoyed the best meal of the trip. Then we went to a local microbrewery where we shared a sampler tray. I didn't care for the banana beer or the nettle beer, but the coffee beer was great. The evening was spent with our tour friends as we soaked up our last night in Prague and prepared ourselves for our journey to Germany. Tomorrow we bid adieu to Prague and we head to Plzen to taste the original pilsner then to Eck in north-eastern Bavaria. 




Random observations: 

The big thing to buy here in Prague is glass - cut crystal or blown glass. You can get the stuff everywhere. 

Smoking is allowed in the bars here. It's given me a new appreciation for the clean indoor air act. 

I have been here for 3 days now and have yet to eat gelato.

No comments:

Post a Comment